One Pattern, Many Happy Friends

First, I have to say is I can't believe how fast summer is going!  My last post was at the end of May, and it's already the beginning of August.  It's not that I haven't been sewing, I have been sewing a lot actually, I'm just behind on taking pictures and writing.  Here is one of the fun projects I've been working on this summer.  I've taken a great pattern and worked on making it for various people learning how to fit it to different body types.

I really enjoy Christine Johnson Patterns.  I've made several of her tops, and when it comes to working with stretch fabrics - she's the expert.  The pattern I've been working with for this project is her Cross Your Heart Top.  This top is very flattering and feminine.   I actually made this top for myself last summer.  I was wearing the top while shopping with a friend who was struggling to find tops that flattered her figure.  While in the dressing room, I had her try on my top - literally the shirt off my back! It looked so nice on her, I gave it to her for her birthday!  (I had only worn it that one time, so it was almost new)

 The first top:

A couple of initial thoughts on this pattern.  Personally I like making it as a sleeveless top, but the sleeves (per pattern) would give it a softer look.  It is very important that the empire waistline hits under the bustline.  To ensure the correct placement of this seam I measured from the top of my shoulder to just under my bust - to where I want the empire seam to fall.   I used a one to one measurment.  Based on this measurement I added 5/8 of an inch to the crossover part of the front pattern.  Then I had to adjust the midriff pattern piece.  It's a rectangle pattern piece that connects to the bottom of the bustline and attaches to this side seams.  As I extended the length of the crossover section, I had to reduce the rectangle piece by as much so that all pattern pieces would match at the bottom hem.  Sewing a rectangle to another rectangle is not easy.  Every time I came to sewing this section together I have difficulty with the corners, and twice I clipped the wrong piece.  My best advice is to read the directions closely and work carefully.  

See adjustment to pattern pieces:

Now for the first adjustments.  I liked this top so much I decided to make it into a great summer dress.  I made it up in a fun Ikat print ITY knit - never wrinkles, no ironing, and so light weight!  I simply extended the shirt top into a simple A line skirt.  I used the skirt of Christine Johnson's Wrap Dress as a guide line.  I used this pattern because I already know that I like the length and width of the skirt.  I also added pleats to the back of the dress so that the dress was fitted around the midriff, but then had enough room around the stomach so that it wasn't tight.

From this pattern I made another dress for my friend.  I followed the same procedure to adjust the bust line and it worked perfectly.

Next I made a top for my sister-in-law.  This time I had to make the bust adjustment and other size adjustments- all were minor.  To my surprise with just a few measurements: full bust, shoulder to under bust line, and waist, the top fit perfectly the first time. 

I would recommend this as a pattern the can easily be altered to fit many people.  To make a dress version of the top the only fitting required is to check the empire waist seam, and then adjust the back darts as needed- easy as pie!